My Travel Guide to Budapest, Hungary
Visiting Hungary for the first time was a dream fulfilled for me. I had been wanting to visit Hungary since I was quite young, as it is where my grandparents on my mother's side are originally from. They fled the country in 1956 for Switzerland, where my aunt and mother were born before coming to Canada in 1960. I had no real expectations that first trip, other than to wander the sights of Budapest, see and experience the city where my grandmother (Nagymama) once lived, eat some amazing cakes, enjoy some much needed Hungarian comfort food, and visit a few quaint wineries.
Budapest stole my heart, and it has never really let go. My first visit was in 2018, and I have been coming back as often as I possibly can ever since. In 2025, I officially became a Hungarian citizen, reclaiming a piece of my family's history that was taken from them in 1956. Since then I have spent a total of five and a half months living in Budapest, which means this guide is not a one time impression from a five day visit. It is built from months on the ground, personal favourites, and site inspections I have done in person as a travel advisor. Every hotel, restaurant, and recommendation below is somewhere I have actually stayed, eaten, or seen for myself.
Budapest is one of my top favourite places I have ever visited, and it is no wonder this city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I honestly believe Budapest is the most beautiful city I have seen at night. Make sure you wander the Danube River's edge from the "Pest" side looking over to the "Buda" side, and do not miss a cruise along the Danube at night. It is a magical experience every single time.
Most of my clients visit Budapest for a few days before or after a river cruise, and it is one of the easiest, most rewarding cities to add on to a larger European itinerary. Whether this is a quick pre or post cruise stop for you or the main event of your trip, here is everything I would want you to know.
If a trip to Budapest is on your mind, I would love to help you plan it. Click here to connect with me and start planning.
Arriving into Budapest
When you arrive into Budapest at Ferenc Liszt Airport, plan for a bit of extra time at passport control. If you hold an EU or Schengen area biometric passport, you can typically use the automated e-gates, which scan your passport and take a quick photo, processing you in as little as ten to fifteen seconds when things are running smoothly. If you are arriving from outside the EU, be aware that the EU's newer Entry/Exit System (EES) has introduced additional biometric checks for non-EU travellers, and this has led to longer and less predictable wait times at Budapest and other European airports. My advice is to build in some buffer time, especially if you have a connecting flight or a fixed pickup time with a private transfer.
Once through passport control and customs, you have several options for getting into the city. I almost always book a private transfer for ease, especially after a long travel day with layovers, and it remains my top recommendation for clients (never take the cheapest option with three layovers, it is not worth losing your sanity). If you would rather book your own ride, both Uber and Bolt operate in Hungary and can be requested right from the arrivals hall using their apps. For a budget friendly option, the Airport Express bus (the 100E) runs around the clock between the airport and the city centre, with a journey time of about 40 minutes, though it requires its own dedicated ticket rather than a standard transit pass.
If you are staying for a few days and plan to use the metro or trams to get around the city, look into a Budapest Travel Card, which covers unlimited travel on the metro, trams, and buses for the length of your stay and is excellent value. If you are staying for about a week or longer, it is actually worth buying the monthly Budapest pass instead of stacking multiple 72-hour cards, the math works out in your favour and you are not boxed in by a strict 72-hour window.
One nice perk for older travellers: anyone aged 65 or over can ride Budapest's public transportation free of charge, regardless of nationality, simply by showing a valid photo ID, such as a passport or driver's licence, if asked by an inspector. Keep in mind this does not apply across the board, the Airport Express bus (the 100E), for example, requires its own separate paid ticket regardless of age.
I personally purchase a Pest County Travel Pass, which covers day trips to Szentendre, out to the Hungaroring, and other areas of Pest County beyond the city limits, so it is worth considering if side trips are part of your plans.
You can also purchase tickets right through the BudapestGO app, which is convenient, but make sure you keep your ticket accessible and your phone charged, as inspectors do check tickets regularly on the metro, trams, and buses.
Where to Stay in Budapest
With months spent living in the city, I have now personally stayed at, toured, or inspected the majority of the luxury and boutique properties Budapest has to offer. Here are my personal favourites and recommendations, organized from historic icons to the newest arrivals on the scene.
Corinthia Hotel Budapest (luxury) - Formerly known as the Grand Royal Hotel, the five star Corinthia is one of Budapest's landmark historical hotels, with a gorgeous spa area (the Royal Spa) and an indoor pool. The lobby is stunning and opulent.
Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel (luxury) - Once a palace, this hotel has amazing views of the Chain Bridge, Buda Castle, and the Danube River. Rooms are impeccably designed with the amazing service the Four Seasons brand is known for. The lobby, with its incredible chandelier, is one of the most stunning I have seen anywhere. One of my favourite restaurants in the city, Kollázs, is also located here (see my review below). Amenities include an indoor infinity edge pool on the top floor, a state of the art gym, a sauna, and a relaxation area. It sits at the start of the pedestrian area in front of St. Stephen's Basilica, lined with wonderful shops and restaurants, perfect for an evening stroll.
Coming soon: SO/ Budapest - The building long known as the Sofitel Budapest Chain Bridge has been closed since 2020 and is being completely reimagined as SO/ Budapest, a new lifestyle hotel from the SO/ brand, with an opening expected sometime in 2026. Once it opens, I will update this guide with a full review of the new property, but it is one to watch for its unbeatable Danube and Chain Bridge location.
Al Habtoor Palace Budapest, formerly The Ritz-Carlton Budapest (luxury) - This historic property in the heart of the Pest side rebranded from The Ritz-Carlton to Al Habtoor Palace in early 2025, following a change in ownership management. The building and location have not changed, and it remains an ultra luxurious option in the historic centre, with rooms carrying a traditional yet contemporary flair, just a few blocks from the Danube River, Gerbeaud Cukrászda, and St. Stephen's Basilica.
Aria Hotel Budapest by Library Hotel Collection (luxury) - The rooftop patio here, the High Note Roof Bar, is worth visiting even if you do not stay at the hotel. I had a wonderful cocktail here at sunset with a stunning view. Located right near St. Stephen's Basilica and the pedestrianized area, with amenities that include complimentary breakfast, afternoon wine and cheese, a pool, fitness centre, steam bath, sauna, and whirlpool.
W Budapest (luxury) - Housed in the beautifully restored Drechsler Palace on Andrássy Avenue, directly across from the Opera House, this is a favourite of mine especially for the AWAY Spa. It is a stunning subterranean wellness retreat with playful design touches inspired by Hungarian icons like Houdini and Zsa Zsa Gabor, along with a WET relaxation pool, sauna, and steam room. The hotel also offers dining at Nightingale by Beefbar and a lively W Lounge, with 151 rooms and suites throughout.
Matild Palace, a Luxury Collection Hotel (ultra luxury) - One of my personal favourites, and the true sister property to The St. Regis, sitting directly across the street in the twin Klotild Palace building. Both were commissioned by Princess Klotild of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha at the turn of the twentieth century as matching gateways to Elisabeth Bridge. Matild Palace reopened in 2021 after a five year restoration, with 130 beautifully appointed rooms and suites, dining from Wolfgang Puck at Spago, the historic Matild Café and Cabaret, and a rooftop bar called The Duchess with sweeping Danube views.
The St. Regis Budapest (ultra luxury, new for 2026) - One of the most anticipated hotel openings in Budapest in years, The St. Regis opened in April 2026 inside the beautifully restored Klotild Palace, right at the foot of Elizabeth Bridge along the Danube. With 102 rooms and suites, the brand's signature Butler Service, and dining options including 99 Sushi Bar and Klotild Patisserie, this is now one of my top recommendations for clients seeking the newest and most prestigious address in the city. The spa includes a hammam and Finnish sauna, and the design throughout pays homage to Budapest's opera history, with guestrooms framed like private theatre boxes.
Párisi Udvar Hotel Budapest, part of Hyatt (luxury, Unbound Collection) - Another personal favourite and a true architectural gem. Housed in the restored Párisi Udvar arcade near Ferenciek tere on the Pest side, this hotel is best known for its breathtaking Art Nouveau atrium, with stained glass, mosaics, and a crystal central dome that took over eighty five thousand hours to restore. The 110 rooms and suites offer a calm, modern contrast to the drama of the public spaces, and Bar Henry is a lovely spot for an evening cocktail.
With so many wonderful properties across every budget and style, choosing the right one can be overwhelming. This is exactly where I come in. Connect with me here and I will match you to the perfect hotel for your Budapest trip.
Getting Around Budapest
Getting around Budapest is so easy. It is such a walkable city, and the transit system is efficient and reliable. If you are here for multiple days, you have a few options. You can buy a transit pass, which is great value, just be sure to validate your ticket at one of the machines when you start using it, or you can be subject to some pretty hefty fines. The transit police do watch tourists carefully here, so please be aware of this.
I have used the metro (the underground subway system) many times myself, and it is so easy to get to places like the Széchenyi Baths or Széll Kálmán station on the Buda side, where you can transfer to a Castle Bus that takes you up the hill into the Buda Castle area. An interesting fact about the iconic Line 1 is that it was completed in 1896, making it the oldest electrified underground railway system in continental Europe.
You truly need to cruise the Danube at night, whether by river cruise ship or a tour boat. As I mentioned, Budapest is probably the most beautiful city I have ever seen after dark.
Taxis are not highly recommended. I have heard plenty of scams and stories of tourists being overcharged, so I generally avoid them. For shorter trips around the city, stick to Uber or Bolt instead, both are reliable and take the guesswork out of pricing. For longer transfers, such as to or from the airport, I always arrange a private transfer, which I love doing after a long flight.
For something a little different, hop on tram number 2, one of the most scenic trams in Budapest. Ride it from Jászai Mari tér and sit on the right side of the tram for the best views along the Danube.
Where to Eat in Budapest
Hungarian food is the ultimate comfort food, from lángos (fried dough served with sour cream and cheese) to chicken paprikash, goulash, and some of the most amazing cakes and pastries you will ever have. Here are the restaurants and cafes I have personally tried and loved, in no particular order, with links to their websites where available.
Vintage Garden - One of the prettiest cafes I have seen in a long time, and it did not disappoint in person. It gets busy, especially for brunch, so make a reservation or arrive right at opening. The menu is very reasonable for the setting. I had the French toast, a coffee melange, and a glass of sparkling Hungária Rosé.
TATI Farm to Table- A Michelin Guide recommended restaurant with a genuine farm-to-table story, the ingredients come straight from the owners' own family farm. Head Chef Gábor Soóky puts a refined, modern spin on Hungarian classics like goulash and chicken paprikash, and there is a full vegan version of the tasting menu as well. Cozy, rustic decor with a warm, welcoming feel, and a wonderful choice for a special occasion dinner.
Nagycsarnok (Great Market Hall) - One of the historical markets in central Budapest, first built in 1897 on the Pest side of the Danube. It is a great place to grab lunch (try a lángos from the last food stall upstairs on the west side) and pick up souvenirs, locally made goods, and wines.
Gelarto Rosa - A wonderful gelato spot with many different flavours, including vegan options, and they form each cone into a rose. Located right near St. Stephen's Basilica, expect long lines in summer and bring cash (Hungarian Forint).
DiVino Borbár - A wine bar near St. Stephen's Basilica with lovely square side seating and more than one hundred forty wines, including a selection from local vintners under the age of thirty five.
Gerbeaud Cukrászda (Café)- Founded in 1858, this is a must visit, and one I have a personal connection to, as family members have worked here. Try the Gerbeaud Cake (Zserbó Szelet), a layered cake with apricot jam, walnuts, and chocolate, along with the Gerbeaud Coffee or Sissi Coffee.
Kollázs- Located inside the Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel, this is a must visit restaurant and bar with Hungarian and French cuisine that looks like art. The lunch set menus are wonderful value, and I highly recommend the chicken paprikash. The dinner menu is just as decadent, and the desserts are not to be missed.
Tigris- A block from the Four Seasons, this Michelin Guide listed restaurant did not disappoint. By far one of the best meals I have had in Budapest, with a foie gras specialities menu and a duck breast main paired beautifully with local wines from the sommelier.
Spago - Located inside Matild Palace, this is Wolfgang Puck's take on Budapest dining, and I loved every bite when I dined here myself. It is a beautiful, buzzy room that blends Puck's signature California style with the grandeur of the historic palace setting, and it is a wonderful choice for a special occasion dinner or a client celebration.
Párisi Passage Restaurant - Set inside the breathtaking Párisi Udvar Hotel arcade, beneath its Art Nouveau crystal dome, this is one of the most beautiful settings for a meal in the entire city. The menu blends Hungarian and international classics, and there is live music and an excellent champagne bar on site as well.
Faust Wine Cellar - Located within the cave ruins of the monastery beneath the Hilton Budapest, this is a stunning and intimate restaurant to try local wines and pálinka (traditional fruit brandy) alongside an excellent meal.
Barack & Szilva - A cute bistro owned by a husband and wife serving traditional Hungarian food. The Chef's Offer dinner with local wine pairings is an amazing value, and the summer patio is a favourite of mine.
Retek Bisztró- A cozy, homestyle Hungarian bistro run by a couple who wanted to recreate the flavours of their grandmother's kitchen. The goulash here is some of the best in the city, and there is often live piano music in the background. Do not skip the Hortobágyi Pancake as a starter, it is probably my favourite in the whole city. Reservations are a must, as it is small and very popular.
Hungarikum Bisztró- A warm, family run spot near Parliament serving traditional Hungarian dishes with a personal touch, right down to a recipe booklet and a complimentary shot of pálinka at the end of the meal. Cimbalom music plays live in the corner most evenings.
Gettó Gulyás- Tucked into the Jewish Quarter, this cozy stew focused restaurant serves excellent goulash alongside more unusual options, plus a Jewish egg spread that nods to the neighbourhood's history. The túrógombóc (cottage cheese dumplings) here are a favourite of mine for dessert.
Franziska(Buda and Pest locations) - My go-to for a relaxed brunch, with locations on both sides of the river. Known for eggs benedict, pancakes, and excellent gluten free and vegan options, with a warm, homey atmosphere at both spots.
Dobrumba - A Middle Eastern and Mediterranean spot in the Jewish Quarter, full of plants and colour. I love their shakshuka here, along with the mezze spread and fresh lemonades. A great option when you want something lighter and more plant forward after a few days of heavier Hungarian food.
Twentysix Budapest Restaurant- An urban jungle of a restaurant filled with dozens of types of plants and a glass domed courtyard. The Mediterranean menu is a nice change of pace, and it is a lovely spot for a leisurely weekend brunch.
Cookie Beacon Brunch(near the Basilica) - A popular brunch spot just steps from St. Stephen's Basilica, known for its handmade chunky cookies baked fresh daily alongside a full brunch menu. Expect a line, but it moves quickly.
Centrál Grand Café & Bar - One of Budapest's oldest coffeehouses, dating back to 1887, with a storied literary history and a stunning turn of the century interior. Breakfast is served all day, and live music plays through the morning and evening. A wonderful stop for a coffee and a slice of history.
Retro Lángos Budapest - My go-to for an elevated take on classic lángos, Hungary's beloved fried dough street food. With two central locations, this spot serves over thirty varieties, including stuffed, vegetarian, vegan, and gluten free options, in a more polished sit down setting than a traditional street stall.
Szimpla Kert- Even if you do not drink, Szimpla Kert is an experience. One of the first "ruin bars" in Budapest, set inside an old warehouse turned bar and club, with eclectic, funky vibes throughout. On weekends, do not miss the farmers market held here, a great spot to pick up local produce, cheeses, and baked goods while soaking in the atmosphere.
Karavan - A few doors down from Szimpla Kert, set inside the remnants of a bombed out warehouse, this is a collection of food trucks serving up all types of cuisine. A great spot for a lángos and some late night people watching.
Craving a Budapest trip built around food like this? Reach out here and let's plan something delicious together.
Things to Do and See in Budapest
There is so much to do and see in Budapest and the surrounding areas. Here are some of my favourite sights and experiences.
If motorsports are part of your trip, I have also put together a dedicated guide to the Hungarian Grand Prix and the Hungaroring, which you can read about here.
Thermal Baths in Budapest
Budapest is one of the very few cities in the world rich with thermal waters, and it is known as the city of spas for good reason. My personal favourites, based on the baths I visit most often while living here, are Rudas, Lukács, Irgalmasok Veli Bej Fürdője, and Palatinus Strand Baths. Gellért Baths, one of the most iconic Art Nouveau baths in the city, is currently closed for a major renovation and is not expected to reopen until 2028, so it is not on my active list for now, though it remains worth admiring from the outside on Szent Gellért tér. The adjoining Gellért Hotel is part of the same larger restoration project and is set to reopen in 2027 under Mandarin Oriental management, so this entire corner of the Buda side is one to watch closely over the next couple of years.
I have also visited the iconic Széchenyi Thermal Bath several times over the years, most recently in 2024, but I no longer recommend it. It is in dire need of renovations at this point, and I would rather steer clients toward the baths below, which I feel offer a better experience right now.
Rudas is located on the Buda side under the Citadel along the Danube, with a beautiful rooftop bath offering unobstructed river views. Lukács, also on the Buda side, is one of the more local and low key options, popular for both its historic pools and its healing waters. Irgalmasok Veli Bej Fürdője is a true hidden gem, Budapest's oldest Ottoman bath, dating to 1574, tucked inside the grounds of the Brothers Hospitallers hospital and often overlooked by tourists entirely. Palatinus Strand Baths, on Margaret Island, is a wonderful choice for a family friendly afternoon outdoors, with multiple pools, slides, and a wave pool in summer.
I am putting together a full dedicated guide to the Budapest thermal baths, covering bath etiquette, what to bring, and how to navigate lockers and cabins, which will be published soon. I will link it here once it is live.
Castle District (Buda)
A beautiful district on the Buda side of the Danube River, home to Buda Hill and Buda Castle. If you start at the Chain Bridge, you will find a funicular to the top, though lines can be long in summer and the ride is not cheap. Alternatively, walk along Lánchíd Road to the Castle Gardens for a free escalator up to a quieter part of Buda Castle, or walk up Hunyadi János Avenue to Fisherman's Bastion and over to the Castle from there. You can also take the metro to Széll Kálmán station and transfer to a Castle Bus.
Fisherman's Bastion is best visited early in the morning, both to beat the crowds and to catch sunrise over the Danube and Parliament, one of the most beautiful views in the city.
This entire district is currently in the middle of a major transformation. The National Hauszmann Program, a large scale government restoration project running through 2030, is actively rebuilding and restoring several historic buildings throughout the Castle District, so do not be surprised to see construction alongside centuries old architecture. It is a fascinating time to visit and watch history being reconstructed in real time.
While you are up in the Castle District, do not miss the House of Houdini, a small but wonderful museum dedicated to Budapest born Harry Houdini, with original artifacts and a live magic show. It is a fun, unexpected stop if you have any interest in the history of magic and escapology.
Another new addition worth visiting is St. Stephen's Hall inside the Palace, a stunning historic hall that was faithfully rebuilt and reopened in 2021 as part of the Hauszmann restoration. A companion exhibition tells the story of the hall's reconstruction and the wider Hauszmann Program itself.
Right at the top of the funicular, beside Sándor Palace, the official residence of the Hungarian President, you can catch the Changing of the Guard. It happens on the hour throughout the day, but the full ceremony with musical accompaniment takes place at noon, and it is well worth timing your visit around if you can.
The Buda Castle District is wonderful to wander. On my first visit, I did a private tour of the castle area with a local guide, blending castle exploration with stories from the Pest side, ending at a cukrászda for coffee and cake. I highly recommend booking a private guide for this area, they bring so much depth and local history to the experience that you simply cannot get on your own. The Royal Palace, now home to the Hungarian National Gallery, is worth a visit if you have the time.
Exploring Pest
Head over to Pest from Buda using the iconic Széchenyi Chain Bridge, then stroll along the Danube River bank to the Parliament building. Along the way, pay your respects at the memorial called Shoes on the Danube Bank, a powerful and sobering tribute to the thousands of people, including hundreds of Jewish people, who were shot into the river at this spot during the Second World War.
Once at Parliament, Hungary's largest building, completed in 1902, do not miss the Crown of St. Stephen inside. From there, head back to the centre of Pest to explore St. Stephen's Basilica, completed in 1905, where the views from the top of the dome are stunning.
Other points of interest include the Great Synagogue (the largest synagogue outside of New York City), the House of Terror, the Budapest Opera House, Heroes Square, and City Park. Whatever you choose to do in Budapest, even simply sitting outside with a coffee or a glass of wine and a cake at a cukrászda, watching the world go by, is time well spent.
Day Trips Near Budapest
Beyond the city itself, there are some wonderful day trips within easy reach, whether you are extending a Budapest stay or looking for a break from the city.
Etyek is one of the closest options, about a forty five minute drive away, and is known for its white and rosé wines, with rolling hills of natural limestone and rich soils. On an afternoon tour there, I visited three unique wineries. A family from the Champagne region of France settled in Etyek generations ago because the landscape closely resembled home, and German wine growers later joined after the Turks were expelled in the eighteenth century. There were once over a thousand wineries in the Etyek-Buda region, and around one hundred twenty five remain today, some run by vintners under the age of thirty five.
Tihany, on Lake Balaton, is one of my favourite half day or full day escapes, especially in lavender season. Start with lunch at Kecskeköröm Csárda, right in the heart of the old town, where I recommend the chicken paprikash and a Lavender Spritz. For dessert, head to Rege Cukrászda at the base of the Benedictine Abbey, and order the lavender krémes, it is to die for and one of the most iconic sweets in the region. While you are there, shop for everything lavender at Lavender Shop Tihany, where you can pick up essential oils, pillow mists, and even a lavender cream liqueur, or visit Tihanyi Levendula Manufaktúra for their Eau de Tihany perfume line, a beautiful, uniquely local souvenir.
Szentendre is another easy and charming day trip, and one of the simplest to reach thanks to the suburban railway (the HÉV), which runs directly from Batthyány tér in Buda. This colourful riverside town is known for its artist community, cobblestone streets, and Mediterranean feel. Grab a lángos at Álomlángos Szentendre, then visit the Szamos Marcipán Múzeum és Cukrászda for something sweet and a peek into the art of marzipan making. It is a wonderful town to simply wander for an afternoon.
Eger is another favourite day trip of mine, and a slightly further one at about two to two and a half hours from Budapest, but well worth it. Eger Castle has a fascinating history: in 1552, a garrison of roughly two thousand Hungarian defenders, led by Captain István Dobó, held off a vastly larger Ottoman army of somewhere between thirty five and forty thousand troops during a month long siege, one of the most celebrated victories in Hungarian history. Legend has it the Ottomans spread rumours that the defenders were fueled by bull's blood, since it gave them almost superhuman strength in battle, and that story is exactly where the region's most famous wine, Egri Bikavér or Bull's Blood, gets its name. The castle finally fell to Ottoman forces more than a century later, in 1596, and was not retaken until the combined Austrian-Hungarian armies pushed the Ottomans out for good in 1687. Today you can walk the castle grounds, explore the casemate exhibition and underground passages, and visit the Heroes' Hall dedicated to Dobó and his men.
Beyond the castle, Eger is also the heart of one of Hungary's most famous wine regions, so leave time for a few wine tastings and sample Egri Bikavér for yourself. The Valley of the Beautiful Women, just outside the town centre, is lined with wine cellars where you can taste your way through the local producers. For lunch or dinner, I suggest Macok Bisztró, a wonderful fine bistro that highlights local and seasonal ingredients like Mangalica pork and Szilvásvárad trout, alongside an excellent list of regional wines.
I have loved every visit to Budapest, and now, living here for months at a time, I love it even more. I hope this guide gives you some useful, personally tested recommendations for your own trip. If you are looking for help planning your next vacation to Budapest, I would love to help you out as your personal travel advisor. Please click here to connect with me.
Until next time, safe travels friends.
Ariane
Danube River view of Budapest, Hungary with the Parliament building from Fisherman’s Bastion at Sunrise.