My Travel Guide to Rome, Italy
Rome is, hands down, one of my favourite cities in the world. The Eternal City has a pull to it that I have never quite been able to put into words. Perhaps it is the memories I have made here over so many visits, or simply that Rome, in some strange and wonderful way, feels like home. I have returned again and again over the years, and each time I discover something new, a restaurant, an experience, a quiet early morning corner, that I cannot wait to share with clients and friends. So I have refreshed this guide with everything I have come to love, including the extraordinary new hotels that have transformed Rome into one of the most exciting luxury destinations in Europe.
Rome rewards those who know how to experience it. There is the version most visitors see, shoulder to shoulder in the midday heat, and then there is the Rome I love to create for my clients, with private guides who open doors most travellers never walk through, after hours access to its greatest treasures, tables held at its finest restaurants, and stays in hotels that are destinations in their own right. This guide blends my personal favourites with the elevated experiences I now design, so you can begin dreaming of your own Roman journey.
If Rome has been calling to you, whether for a milestone celebration, a honeymoon, or simply the joy of experiencing it properly, I would love to help you plan it. You can begin the conversation here.
Arriving into Rome
Rome's Fiumicino Airport is straightforward to navigate, and there are a few ways into the city. You can take the Leonardo Express train into Termini Station, or a white official taxi, which has a fixed fare into the historic centre. For my clients, I always arrange a private transfer, so that after a long flight, a driver is waiting to take you directly and effortlessly to your hotel. It is a small thing that makes an enormous difference to how your trip begins.
Where to Stay in Rome
Rome's hotel scene has undergone a remarkable transformation in the past few years, with a wave of extraordinary luxury openings that have redefined what it means to stay in the Eternal City. These are the properties I am most excited to recommend right now.
Six Senses Rome
Set behind a beautifully restored UNESCO listed facade on Via del Corso, just steps from the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain, it is the brand's first urban hotel in Italy, and it is spectacular. The interiors, designed by the celebrated Patricia Urquiola, are calm and tactile, all travertine, wood, and soft natural light, an oasis in the middle of the city.
The heart of the hotel, for me, is the spa and its modern reimagining of the ancient Roman baths. You move through a bathing circuit of caldarium, tepidarium, and frigidarium, warm to hot to cold and back again, just as the Romans did centuries ago, in a space that feels both ancient and beautifully contemporary. It is one of the most restorative experiences I have had in any city hotel. The rooftop, NOTOS, offers wonderful views and cocktails, and the whole property carries the Six Senses commitment to wellness and sustainability throughout. This is a hotel I recommend to clients without hesitation.
Bulgari Hotel Roma
For those seeking the pinnacle of Italian glamour, the Bulgari Hotel Roma is breathtaking. Overlooking the Mausoleum of Augustus, it is the jewel in Bulgari's hotel collection, with interiors of extraordinary craftsmanship and marble. Its spa is among the finest in the city, spanning a vast space with a green onyx pool and a 20 metre indoor pool decorated with mosaics inspired by the ancient Baths of Caracalla. This is polished, jewel box luxury of the highest order, and a wonderful choice for a client who wants Rome at its most refined.
Orient Express La Minerva
One of the most exciting arrivals in Rome is the Orient Express La Minerva, the very first hotel from the storied Orient Express name. Set in a historic 17th century palazzo on Piazza della Minerva, just steps from the Pantheon, it channels the romance and Jazz Age glamour the brand is famous for, reimagined by the rising artist and architect Hugo Toro. Every detail, from the Lalique inspired carved panels to the steamer trunk bedside tables, tells a story. Of all the city's grand new hotels, this one may feel the most quintessentially Roman.
What makes the Orient Express name so special is that it is far more than a hotel. The legendary train journeys, including La Dolce Vita Orient Express, are a wonderful add on to a Roman stay for those who want to see Italy in the most romantic and glamorous way imaginable, gliding through the countryside in beautifully restored carriages. It is exactly the kind of once in a lifetime experience I love to weave into a bespoke journey, pairing a few nights in Rome with an unforgettable train voyage. This is a new and evolving product, and one I am delighted to help clients navigate and book.
The Grande Dames of Rome
Alongside the exciting new arrivals, Rome's classic luxury hotels remain some of the finest in the world, and for many of my clients they are the very heart of a Roman stay.
The Hassler Roma is a legend. One of the last remaining independently owned, family run luxury hotels in the city, this grande dame sits in the most coveted position in Rome, right at the top of the Spanish Steps. Its rooftop restaurant, Imago, holds a Michelin star and offers one of the most breathtaking views over the city's rooftops. Timeless, elegant, and impeccably run, the Hassler is Roman luxury in its purest form.
The St. Regis Rome, just off Piazza della Repubblica, is pure old world glamour, beautifully restored to feel fresh and current while honouring its 19th century heritage. Founded originally in 1894, it offers the legendary St. Regis butler service, restored frescoes, polished marble, and an art collection woven throughout its public spaces. For clients who love classic, refined grandeur, it is a wonderful choice.
Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel, offers something quite different and special. Set in a private 15 acre Mediterranean park on one of Rome's highest hills, it feels like a serene resort just minutes from the city centre, with sweeping panoramic views that take in St. Peter's dome. It is home to La Pergola, Rome's only three Michelin starred restaurant, an extraordinary art collection, and a beautiful spa built around a Roman bath. For families, or for anyone who wants space, greenery, and a pool with a view alongside their Rome experience, the Cavalieri is unmatched.
The Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome occupies a magnificent 19th century neoclassical palazzo overlooking Piazza della Repubblica and the ancient Baths of Diocletian. Recently and beautifully revived under Anantara, it pairs grand marble architecture with the brand's renowned spa and dining, and a wonderful rooftop pool and terrace overlooking the Eternal City. It is a grand, historic, and superbly located choice.
These new hotels are among the most in demand in Europe, and the best suites and the most sought after Orient Express departures book far in advance. As a Virtuoso member, I am often able to secure preferred rates, upgrades, and special amenities at properties like these. If Rome is on your horizon, reach out early and let me help you secure the very best.
Experiencing Rome Early
One piece of advice I give every client, no matter where they stay, is to venture out early. I am often out of my hotel by six in the morning, and there is nothing quite like it. You see how the locals live, you experience Rome's greatest sights with almost no one around, and the soft, warm sunrise light is magical for photographs. Side streets that will be shoulder to shoulder by two in the afternoon are quiet and peaceful, filled only with the bustle of deliveries and the echo of "buongiorno" down the lane. It remains, to me, the most beautiful way to experience the city.
Eating in Rome
Roman food is soulful and simple, and eating well here is one of life's great pleasures. Breakfast is easy, "caffe e cornetto," an espresso and a pastry, taken standing at the counter as the locals do. A lovely spot is the historic Antico Caffe Greco near the Spanish Steps, one of the oldest cafes in Rome.
For a memorable coffee near the Pantheon, try a cappuccino al ginseng at Tazza D'Oro, or the famous granita di caffe con panna. And remember, asking for your coffee to go is almost sacrilege here. This is the one moment to pause and, quite literally, smell the coffee.
For casual Roman classics, I still adore the institutions. Forno Campo de' Fiori serves some of the best pizza bianca I have ever tasted, wonderful with mortadella. Nearby, Antico Forno Roscioli is beloved for its pizza al taglio and arancini. And no visit is complete without a proper cacio e pepe, that heavenly Roman pasta of pecorino and cracked pepper.
Higher End Dining
For my clients who love a special meal out, Rome delivers beautifully. Ristorante All'Oro, an intimate Michelin starred restaurant just north of Piazza del Popolo, remains one of my favourites, with one of the finest tasting menus I have experienced and staff who handle preferences and sensitivities with real care. For an unforgettable occasion, La Pergola, Rome's three Michelin starred crown jewel perched high above the city, is in a class of its own and worth booking well in advance. The city's newest hotels have also brought exceptional dining, from the rooftops with panoramic views to elegant restaurants helmed by celebrated chefs, and I am always happy to match the right table to the right evening.
For a truly classic Roman institution, Fiaschetteria Beltramme near the Spanish Steps serves what I still believe is the best carbonara on the planet, alongside beautiful burrata, prosciutto, and cacio e pepe, all at wonderfully honest prices.
Securing the right reservations, at the right time, at Rome's most sought after tables is one of the quiet luxuries of working with an advisor. If you would like every dinner of your trip taken care of, let us talk.
Dessert in Rome
Rome takes its sweets seriously, and so do I. Tiramisu has become something of a delicious obsession in the city, and there are a few spots I always send clients to.
Two Sizes, tucked in a charming alley near Piazza Navona, is famous for its tiramisu served in, yes, two sizes, so you can happily sample several flavours. The pistachio is a must, and it is lovely enjoyed by the nearby Fontana del Moro.
Mr. 100 Tiramisù near Piazza Navona takes the idea even further, offering an astonishing range of flavours alongside beautiful cheese and charcuterie boards and Italian wines. It is worth staying to enjoy it properly rather than only taking away. The unusual flavour combinations, from pistachio to more creative pairings, are a joy to explore.
For gelato, Frigidarium near Piazza Navona is a wonderful stop, known for its rich, creamy scoops and its signature dip in white or dark chocolate. And the beloved Pompi, near the Spanish Steps, remains a classic for its traditional tiramisu.
Drinking from the Fountains
A lovely Roman detail worth knowing: you can drink from the fountains. The little nasoni fountains throughout the city run with cool, fresh water from ancient aqueducts, tested daily and completely safe to drink. I always travel with a refillable bottle, and on a hot Roman day, there is nothing more refreshing. Buying bottled water here is entirely unnecessary.
The Vatican
Even for those who are not religious, the Vatican is a sight to behold, and how you experience it makes all the difference. On an early visit, I did a standard guided tour and, while interesting, it felt rushed and crowded. On a later trip, I had a completely different and extraordinary experience: a private after hours tour of the Vatican Museums, followed by dinner in the gardens. To stand in the Sistine Chapel with no crowds, entirely at our own pace, was unforgettable. This is precisely the kind of exclusive access I love to arrange for clients, and it transforms the Vatican from a bucket list checkmark into one of the most memorable evenings of a trip.
Other Experiences in Rome
Rome is, of course, filled with iconic sights: the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, Piazza Navona, and the wonderful market at Campo de' Fiori, where I love to buy kitchenware like ravioli presses and pasta tools. Rome's licensed guides are exceptionally well trained, many holding advanced degrees, given the historical significance of nearly everything you walk past. A privately guided experience of the Colosseum and Forum, ideally with special access areas, brings the ancient city vividly to life in a way that wandering alone simply cannot. These are the touches that turn a visit into an education and a memory.
Rome Overall
I always have the most wonderful time in Rome. It is a place I could genuinely see myself living, where every corner reveals more history and more beauty. One of my most treasured "pinch me" moments came on an early morning walk to Vatican City, standing almost alone in the piazza before St. Peter's Basilica as the sun rose, when a children's choir began to sing Ave Maria. I found myself moved to tears by the sheer beauty of it. These are the moments Rome gives you when you experience it the right way.
I always throw my coin over my shoulder into the Trevi Fountain, so I know it is only ever a matter of time before I return.
Let Me Plan Your Roman Journey
Rome is a city I will happily return to and keep sharing for the rest of my life. If you are dreaming of the Eternal City, whether it is your first visit or your tenth, I would be honoured to design a journey made entirely around you, from the extraordinary new hotels and the private after hours access to the perfect dinner reservations and, if you wish, an unforgettable Orient Express train journey through the Italian countryside.
I am a travel advisor specializing in luxury and bespoke travel, and a proud member of Virtuoso. You can begin planning your Roman journey with me here, or book a complimentary planning call whenever you are ready. And if you are continuing your Italian journey onward, you may enjoy my guides to the Amalfi Coast and Venice as well.
Ciao for now, and safe travels.
Ariane