My Travel Guide to the Amalfi Coast, Italy

It is no secret that Italy is one of my favourite places in the world and one I hold close for personal reasons, as I have family connections to this beautiful country. I have been fortunate to visit the Amalfi Coast several times, and it remains a place I can see myself returning to again and again, year after year. It is the kind of coastline that stays with you. Lemon groves draped across terraced, villa lined mountainsides, the bright ceramics in every shade of blue and yellow, and the shimmering aquas of the Tyrrhenian Sea below. It is, quite simply, one of the most stunning stretches of coast on earth, and it is easy to understand why travellers have been drawn here for generations.

Over the years, and especially now that I design bespoke journeys for clients who want the very best of a destination, my view of the Amalfi Coast has deepened. There is the version most people experience, and then there is the version I love to create for my clients, with private drivers, yacht days along the coast, dinners reserved long in advance at the region's finest tables, and stays in the sort of hotels you never want to leave. This guide blends my personal favourites with the elevated experiences I now curate, so you can begin dreaming about your own journey here.

If reading this stirs something in you, a honeymoon, a milestone celebration, or simply the pull to experience the Amalfi Coast in true comfort, I would love to help you plan it. You can begin the conversation here.

A Little About the Amalfi Coast

The Amalfi Coast is made up of thirteen towns spread along roughly 40 kilometres of coastline in the Campania region of southern Italy. The famous coastal drive is both breathtaking and, at times, a little terrifying, with its narrow bends hugging the cliffs. If it is your first visit, I always recommend arranging a private driver or travelling by the ferry system, with regular services running from Salerno, Naples, and the island of Capri throughout the day. For my clients, I arrange private transfers so the journey feels as seamless as the stay.

One thing worth knowing before you choose where to stay is that the Amalfi Coast asks a little of you physically. Some hotels and villas are reached by car or golf cart, while others are accessible only by staircases or steep, narrow walkways. Part of my role when planning a trip here is matching the right property to how you like to travel, so the location suits your pace and your comfort rather than working against it.

If I am being honest, my ideal way to experience this coast is to move between a couple of different properties, savouring the quieter evenings in each town and taking in more than one view. Staying in a single base and exploring from there is certainly easier, and I plan it that way often, but there are so many exceptional hotels here that experiencing two or three of them can turn a lovely trip into an unforgettable one.

Beyond the headline towns of Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello, there are quieter gems along the coast that reward those who seek them out, places such as Praiano, Conca dei Marini, Scala, Atrani, Minori, Maiori, Cetara, and Vietri sul Mare. I will share a few personal recommendations for these as we go.

Views above Positano, Italy

Positano

Positano is the quintessential postcard village of the Amalfi Coast. Everyone wants to come here, and the prices reflect that. Known for its romantic views, its lemons, its wonderful food, and its pastel buildings clinging almost impossibly to the cliffs, Positano is always a highlight. The narrow walkways winding down through town to the beach are lined with local boutiques, some carrying imported goods and others showcasing local designers and craftspeople. Positano is easy to reach by car, public bus, or ferry. In summer, the pebble beaches fill quickly, with beach clubs taking up much of the open space, where you can rent chairs and umbrellas by the hour, half day, or full day, often with food and drink service.

Where to Stay in Positano

Le Sirenuse is the icon of Positano, and for good reason. Part of the Leading Hotels of the World, it opened in 1951 and has been beloved by generations of discerning travellers ever since. Its Michelin starred restaurant, La Sponda, lit by hundreds of candles each evening, is one of the most romantic dining experiences on the coast.

Il San Pietro di Positano is, to my mind, one of the most extraordinary hotels in all of Italy. Carved into the cliffside just outside Positano and marked only by a small sign, it is discreet, breathtaking, and utterly special, with a private beach reached by elevator through the rock. For clients who want quiet luxury and privacy above all, this is often my first recommendation.

Villa TreVille in Positano was once the private residence of the filmmaker Franco Zeffirelli, and it remains the most exclusive hideaway on the coast. Intimate, artistic, and impossibly glamorous, it feels like being welcomed into a beautiful private home.

Hotel Palazzo Murat offers something different, a garden oasis set right in the heart of the village. While it does not have the classic sweeping Positano views, its location and its history as the summer residence of a former king make it a true gem, and its walled garden is a peaceful retreat from the bustle outside.

Choosing the right hotel here is everything, and the differences between them are subtle but meaningful. If you would like my help matching the right property to the trip you have in mind, let us talk.

Where to Eat in Positano

The food along the Amalfi Coast is some of the finest you will ever have, thanks to the freshness of the ingredients, real buffalo mozzarella made locally each day, sun ripened lemons, seafood straight from the water, and of course wonderful pasta. Do not leave without trying a lemon gelato served inside a frozen lemon, best enjoyed while wandering the town. A few of my favourites:

Ristorante Le Tre Sorelle, right on the beach, is hard to beat for both the views and the menu. I have happily spent an afternoon here with a glass of local pinot grigio, a wonderful pizza capricciosa, and rigatoni al ragu napoletano.

Da Vincenzo is family run and known for its seafood, though I stopped in for dessert and the panzerotti, and it was memorable. It is no surprise this place appears in the Michelin guide, and their little housewares shop is lovely for beautiful tableware.

Casa e Bottega is a true hidden gem, a chic, light filled spot perfect for a refreshing smoothie or lighter fare.

Next2, about a ten minute drive outside Positano, is a romantic choice that comes highly recommended by locals.

One of my favourite experiences here is booking a table at Ristorante Da Adolfo, a beach club and restaurant just outside Positano. Their little boat, marked by an unmistakable red fish on the mast, shuttles you to a secluded private beach for the day. The grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves is not to be missed.

Overlooking Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Ristorante Le Tre Sorelle

A Few Positano Tips

Near Positano you can visit the Grotta dello Smeraldo, a beautiful emerald grotto that is far less crowded than the famous Blue Grotto on Capri, with calmer waters and better chances of entering.

The most beautiful views of Positano are from the water. I always encourage clients to spend an afternoon or a sunset out on a private boat with a driver, prosecco in hand, watching the village glow in the golden light. It is one of those moments you never forget, and arranging a private charter is one of my favourite touches to build into a trip here.

Gelato served in a lemon with Positano in the background.

Views of Positano, Italy from a boat

Praiano

Just along the coast from Positano sits Praiano, a quieter, more residential village that offers a wonderful sense of calm while still placing you close to everything. Casa Angelina here is a striking, contemporary, design forward hotel, all crisp white spaces and modern art against the deep blue of the sea, a lovely contrast to the more traditional properties nearby. Their fine dining restaurant, Un Piano Nel Cielo is another personal favourite along with the private cooking classes they offer. Praiano is also one of the best places on the coast to watch the sunset.

Amalfi

The town that gave this stunning coastline its name, Amalfi is also the birthplace of one of my favourite comfort dishes, cannelloni. It is one of the busier towns, with tour buses filling the harbour car parks by midday, so my advice is to experience Amalfi either first thing in the morning or later in the evening, when the town belongs to those who linger.

Amalfi, Italy

Where to Stay in Amalfi

Hotel Santa Caterina is one of the most luxurious and beloved hotels on the entire coast. A family owned property just outside Amalfi, it is a member of the Leading Hotels of the World, with beautiful hand painted tiles, terraces opening to uninterrupted sea views, a private beach club reached by a cliffside elevator, and a Michelin starred restaurant, Glicine, meaning wisteria. It is the kind of hotel where I would happily book a few nights simply to enjoy the property itself.

Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel, set in a beautifully restored 13th century monastery perched high above Amalfi, is a spectacular choice. Formerly the NH Collection property, it was fully renovated and rebranded under Anantara in 2023, and it now blends its remarkable history with contemporary luxury. The infinity pool cut into the cliff, the original cloisters, and the Dei Cappuccini restaurant on its suspended terrace make it unforgettable.

Borgo Santandrea, just along the coast in Conca dei Marini, is the most exciting addition to the Amalfi Coast in years. Opened in 2022, it has quickly become one of the most sought after hotels in the region. Set 90 metres above the sea with its own private beach, it pairs a slick, mid century Mediterranean aesthetic with the work of local artisans, including 31 different types of handmade tiles throughout the property. With three restaurants led by chef Crescenzo Scotti, an infinity pool, and interiors that feel both timeless and fresh, this is a property I am recommending to clients again and again.

The very best rooms and suites at these hotels are limited and book far in advance, particularly for summer and the festive season. As a Virtuoso member, I am often able to secure preferred rates, upgrades, and added amenities at properties like these. If the Amalfi Coast is on your horizon, reach out early and let me help you secure the very best.

Amalfi, Italy

Where to Eat in Amalfi

La Caravella holds a special place in my heart. It was the first restaurant in southern Italy to be awarded a Michelin star, and it still holds one today. The atmosphere and cuisine are outstanding, and I cannot recommend the tasting menu highly enough. I was fortunate to experience their four course lunch tasting menu, and it remains one of the finest meals I have ever had. I cannot wait to return.

Dei Cappuccini, at the Anantara Convento di Amalfi, offers stunning views and beautiful food, with many ingredients sourced from Amalfi's markets and the hotel's own garden.

Pasticceria Savoia is the place for wonderful gelato and pastries. Try the Campania classic sfogliatella, or the delizia al limone, a soft sponge cake soaked in limoncello.

Inside La Caravella in Amalfi

Gelato at Pasticceria Savoia

Shopping in Amalfi

Amalfi is where I typically buy my limoncello and a few ceramics. There is a lovely family run limoncello maker in the main square, near the base of the cathedral steps, called Antichi Sapori d'Amalfi, where you can sample their limoncello and other liqueurs, including melon and pistachio. I purchased an olive oil pourer here on my first visit that I still use in my kitchen today.

Antichi Sapori d'Amalfi

Ravello

Ravello is one of those places that rewards those who know where to look. Perched high on the mountain above the coast, it is quieter and more refined than Amalfi or Positano, and it is a wonderful place to find beautiful ceramics away from the crowds.

Ravello, Italy

Where to Stay in Ravello

Belmond Hotel Caruso is, quite honestly, one of my favourite hotels in the world. Belmond has a gift for intimate, characterful properties in extraordinary locations, and the Caruso is a perfect example. Its infinity pool appears to spill directly into the sea far below, and its gardens and sweeping views of the coastline make it feel like a serene oasis high above the world. For those wanting even more privacy, Belmond Villa Margherita offers a private villa experience with full access to the Caruso's amenities nearby.

Palazzo Avino, affectionately known as the Pink Palace, is Ravello's other great luxury hotel. An elegant 12th century villa with a Michelin starred restaurant, Rossellinis, and a chic beach club down on the water, it is romantic, polished, and beautifully run.

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What to See in Ravello

Ravello's two great villas are unmissable. Villa Rufolo, built in the 13th century and easily reached from the main square, has beautifully restored gardens and terraces with stunning views. Villa Cimbrone is worth every step of the walk to reach it, and its Terrazzo dell'Infinito, the Terrace of Infinity, offers what may be the most breathtaking view on the entire coast.

A visit to Ravello, timed well, is one of the quiet pleasures of this coast. Weaving together the right towns, hotels, and experiences in the right order is exactly what I love to do for my clients. If you would like a journey designed entirely around you, I would be delighted to help.

Colourful ceramics in Ravello, Italy

Villa Cimbrone, Ravello, Italy

"Terrazzo dell'infinito" or Terrace of Infinity, Villa Cimbrone, Ravello, Italy

Conca dei Marini

Beyond Borgo Santandrea, this tiny, tranquil village is also home to Monastero Santa Rosa, a converted 17th century monastery that is now the coast's leading wellness focused retreat. Intimate, serene, and blessed with one of the most beautiful cliffside pools imaginable, it is a wonderful choice for those seeking rest and renewal alongside the beauty of the coast.

Minori, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Minori

I stayed in Minori for five nights on one of my visits, and it was a lovely, quiet base from which to explore the coast and its neighbouring villages. Above Minori sits Ravello, reachable by a beautiful 45 minute walk up through the terraced lemon groves. Minori is wonderfully local, with more relaxed prices and far fewer tourists, and I found it a perfect place to slow down, enjoy the quieter beach, and eat exceptionally well. Using the ferries from here is also far less hectic, as you board before the boats fill up further along the coast.

Where to Eat in Minori

Giardiniello was the setting for one of the loveliest meals I have had on the coast. Dining on the terrace, I had stuffed zucchini flowers to start, followed by homemade n'dunderi alla minorese, the pillowy soft gnocchi that Minori is known for, in tomato sauce with smoked mozzarella.

Pasticceria Sal De Riso is a higher end dessert destination and a lovely place to sit outside with a coffee and watch local life go by.

Giardiniello Restaurant, Minori, Amalfi Coast, Italy

What to Do in Minori

One of my favourite experiences here was walking the Sentiero dei Limoni, the Path of the Lemons, a beautiful route through alleyways, staircases, and terraced lemon groves, with gorgeous sunrise views over Minori and Ravello perched high above.

"Walk of the Lemons" during sunrise over Minori, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Sorrento

Sorrento is not technically part of the Amalfi Coast, but many travellers pass through on their way to or from the coast, so I am including it here. With its own lemons, cliffs, and sea views, Sorrento shares much of the coast's charm and is a lovely place to spend a night or two.

Sorrento, Italy

Where to Stay in Sorrento

Hotel Bellevue Syrene, part of Relais and Chateaux, offers beautiful accommodation overlooking the Bay of Naples. Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World, is a landmark property perched dramatically on the clifftop, with views towards Mount Vesuvius and elegantly traditional rooms steeped in history.

Where to Eat in Sorrento

O'Parrucchiano is where cannelloni was perfected, and it is still served here today in a beautiful garden conservatory and lemon grove setting. I came for an early dinner, had the cannelloni, and dined out among the lemon trees.

L'Antica Trattoria was the setting for a memorable set menu lunch, where I was welcomed on a warm September afternoon with a glass of prosecco and treated to a wonderful four course meal with attentive service. I would return in a heartbeat.

L'Antica Trattoria, Sorrento, Italy

Experiencing the Amalfi Coast in True Luxury

Over the years, the way I plan the Amalfi Coast for my clients has evolved well beyond simply booking a hotel and a few dinners. The moments my clients treasure most are the ones that require insight, relationships, and careful planning to arrange. A private yacht or gozzo for a day exploring the coast and Capri at your own pace. A private driver so you never have to think about the winding roads or where to park. A privately guided visit to the villas of Ravello before the crowds arrive. Dinner reservations at the coast's finest tables, secured well in advance. A private chef and a villa with staff for those who prefer the freedom and privacy of their own space. Even a helicopter transfer from Naples or Rome, turning hours of driving into a breathtaking twenty minute arrival.

These are the details that transform a beautiful holiday into something truly extraordinary, and they are exactly what I love to create. As a Virtuoso member with trusted partners across the region, I am able to open doors that are difficult to open on your own, and to ensure that from the moment you arrive to the moment you leave, everything is taken care of.

Let Me Plan Your Amalfi Coast Journey

The Amalfi Coast is a place I return to again and again, and one I will happily keep sharing with those who love it as I do. If you are dreaming of Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, or the quieter corners of this beautiful coastline, I would be honoured to design a journey made entirely around you, from the hotels and the timing to the private experiences that will stay with you long after you return home.

I am a travel advisor specializing in luxury and bespoke travel, and a proud member of Virtuoso. You can begin planning your Amalfi Coast journey with me here, or book a complimentary planning call whenever you are ready.

Are you planning on adding on other iconic cities on your Italian journey? You can also view my Venice Travel Guide and Rome Travel Guide for more travel tips.

Ciao for now, and safe travels.

Ariane

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